Until It Sleeps

Munich and Berlin were stark opposites in terms of facades, and the way they presented themselves directly relate with each city's reaction to the end of World War 2 and the Holocaust. Munich is what you would think of when someone says "Germany." It is a very traditional Bavarian place, full of men wearing lederhosen and little hats out on the street. After WW2, every effort was made to make the city look as it did prior to the wars. Churches and other buildings were rebuilt with as much original material as possible, and like I said before, when referencing the war imprecise and subtle language is used. Kristallnacht, the night when Hitler's men went around bashing in the windows of Jewish businesses, occurred in Munich, and there are memorials to it that don't specifically state what "it" is.

Berlin didn't have the benefit of complete American occupation following the war, and so the East part only really began to rebuild after the Berlin wall fell. Because of this much of the city is extremely modern. It has a thriving art scene, and reminds me quite a bit of San Francisco. I found Berlin's way of dealing with the atrocities of the Holocaust to be much more up front, with the huge, controversial Memorial of the Murdered Jews of Europe snagging the very center of the city. But even that memorial only recently got a plaque actually explaining what it is, so maybe Berlin isn't as open about the Holocaust as they claim to be.

Even with constant reminders of the Holocaust, I still really, really enjoyed my time in Germany and I am sad to leave. It is a prosperous, efficient, and intelligent country that seems to be truly sorry for their dark past. It is illegal to draw a swastika or give a Nazi salute, and being a Neo Nazi is not allowed. I still haven't decided if I like the "don't draw attention to it" attitude of Munich or the "holy crap we made a very big mistake" attitude of Berlin. I think the main thing I have come to accept is that prejudice against Germans today is unfounded, especially since I feel like so many Nazis were only participating because the alternative was watching their families killed in front of them. Obviously there were those involved who became Nazis out of a belief in the cause, but I think most people were motivated by fear and the desire to survive. My impression is that Germans acknowledge their dark past, feel terribly about it, and are still confused about exactly how to embrace such an awful and sensitive subject. And I don't blame them. That is some hefty baggage.

I was not raised Jewish, but by Hitler's standards I am worthy of extermination, and being in the places where it all went down has been interesting, to say the least. I stood at the exact location where Hitler first tried to assume power, where he forced people to salute the Nazi party, where he burned tens of thousands of books, where he committed suicide with his new bride, and his final resting place, where he had himself burned to avoid a public humiliation like Mussolini's. When I sat staring at Hitler's grave, I felt a fury unlike any I have experienced before. I wanted to punch the picture of Hitler's face that the tour guide was holding up. I don't know why, maybe it was being in a spot where Hitler stood, but the Holocaust became so real for me in that instance.

So that was Germany for me. Beer, bratwurst, and bad guys. I think the country has done remarkably well given the kind of damage they needed to repair, and while not the same, Munich and Berlin both have effective ways of dealing with their "apologies." The silent salutes to victims of unspeakable war crimes begin the healing process, and this sounds corny, but only continued tolerance towards all groups (this includes straight, white males) can really put the sutures in the wounds. Forgiveness can be achieved, but what has happened should never be forgotten.

Munchin in Munchen

Guten tag from Munich!

Michael and I arrived here yesterday, and were instantly satisfied by what has been the cheapest city for us both (so far). Especially after Switzerland, where there was literally no meal below the equivalent of $15.

We both had some things planned for this city, so today we set out to accomplish them. Our day began with a 5 hour trip to the BMW Museum and BMW Welt Factory. They were located right next to where the 1972 summer Olympics were held. The Welt Factory is the most beautiful piece of architectural work I have ever had the pleasure to experience.

The museum held some absolutely exquisite cars, and this comes from a person who is only truly interested in the color of a car. I learned a lot about the cars BMW makes, as well as the history of the company. For one thing, I learned that BMW supplied arms to the Nazis during the war, and had their cars built by slave labor, including concentration camp inmates, who were treated far worse than the other slaves. This was not nice to know, but I did find out that BMW was one of the first German companies to acknowledge the atrocities they committed, and even set up a fund for as a kind of reparations. This would have been more redeeming if the BMW museum had not referred to 1939 as "when war broke out," instead of "when we started the war." But I shouldn't be too picky. It is kind of hard knowing that whatever German museums I go to, there will inevitably be some mention of the Holocaust. Obviously it is not something that should be forgotten, but I sure get sad when I see all those pictures.

In any case, I thoroughly enjoyed the museum and the factory, and I even bought myself a really cool BMW Yachtsports sweater. Hopefully no one will actually ask me about BMWs because I really still just don't understand cars that well. WAIT ALSO we saw this car, one whose outside is entirely made of a really cool fabric:

The headlights look like eyes because the fabric moves back like eyelids when you use them!! SO COOL!!

Tonight we headed over the Hofbrauhaus, a famous Beer garden here in Munich. Man, was it crazy! It was a huuuuge restaurant, and right in the center there was a traditional German band playing loud music. The place was filled with a great mix of tourists and locals, and everyone seemed happy. The whole area had a great feeling of joviality. Michael and I each ordered a beer (a little one for me) and different wursts with sauerkraut. We also got big ol' salty pretzels before the main course! We sat right by the Stammtisch (regulars) section, and those tables were full of old German men wearing traditional little German hats wearing German liederhosen, drinking from their own personal beer steins.

All in all it was a great day. Munich is a fabulous city, one which I could even imagine people living. Some places I've been to this summer (mostly Spain) I just can't imagine people ever living there. They don't seem like legitimate places, more like summer or weekend places. Maybe because they were so hot.

PS We never went paragliding. The two days we had set aside for it greeted us with cloudy, rainy, thundery weather, so it wasn't safe. It's too bad, because I was all revved up to go. I GUESS I will just have to go back ;)